Bonjour
j’ai jouer 66 sng a 1€ pour un gains de 0€, hors sur mon hm2 j’ai quelque soucis.
une ptite question sur le “chips EV” l stat et sur l’ensembles des sng? ni aurais t’il pas cette stats sur la moyenne?
quelle stats sont pertinente pour les expresso?
TY
Certaines version de HEM gerent (tres) mal les expressos et du coup il compte pas les buy in (car il pense qu’ils sont a 0 …)
Le chips Net et EV sont bien sur l’ensemble des SnG. Il fau tdiviser à la main ensuite pour avoir la moyenne.
Le Chip EV / game est clairement la stat la plus representative de ton edge sur le format. Ensuite vient le itm%, et en dernier le roi% (chacun mettant plus longtemps à converger).
Malheuresement Hold’em manager track trés mal les expresso le mieux c’est pokertracker.
Il n’y a pas de stat sur la moyenne a ma connaissance
Je te conseille d’afficher ton all-in ev afin d’avoir ton ev chips net et de le diviser par le nombre de game.
En revanche holdem est fiable sur l’itm. Essaye de depasser les 37.5% sinon ca va swinger sévère tu y est presque sur ce petit sample.
je joue principalement en cash , donc un peu de mal avec les stats sng
la stat all-in ev pour avoir mon ev chips net c’est ?
C’est ton “Chips (EV Adjusted)” que tu as deja dans ton 1er screen.
si je comprend bien: je prend la stats " chips ev adjusted ,ici 3475 que je divise par le nombre de sng ici 66 ce qui donne 52.65 chips EV sur 1 sng /moyenne.
donc je run good de 52,65 chips par sng . j’ai bon ?
oui, enfin c’est pas tu run good ou bad, ca represente ton edge par rapport aux autres joueurs (à quel point tu crush ou non la limite)
si tu veux savoir si tu run good ou pas, il faut comparer le net chips a celui en EV
merci de toutes ces explications.
donc sur ce tres faible nombre de game on peu dire que je ne crush pas cette limit ou l’inverse.?
50 c’est pas degueux mais c’est pas ouf non plus.
Le point de break even est a 38 de mémoire, et on peu atteindre genre 100 chips/game sur les micros je pense.
Watch this video - FAQ - Hold'em Manager (HM1) Poker Tracking Software :: EV Explained
CASH EV
What EV can do / how it can be used:
Any allin situation, before the river, where a player has at least one « out » results in a EV $ Diff.
$Won + EV $ Diff = $USD EV
(AA vs KK is the most fun example… AK vs QQ is the most common « coinflip »)
The « problem » what some people don’t understand:
A: If a player has 0 outs, or
B: the allin situation takes place on the river there is NO EV DIFFERENCE.
C: If a shortstack goes allin preflop, and is called by two bigstacks. And the two bigstacks continue to bet on the flop, turn or river, this situation is treated as situation B. (EV = 0)
Fozzy : « You can’t calculate all-in equity if you don’t know the hands you are up against. »
D: If you commit 80% of your stack with the best hand, but your last 20% goes allin with the worst hand, the $EV Difference will be calculated by your entire stack.
Why « EV by street » (which people who often see situation D want) is a bad thing:
Best explanation here - Enter the SECT
Summary of that thread:
Example:
So although you ran obviously uber-good by having donkey folding 88 times out of 100. EV by street focuses on the 12 times where donkey hit his set and tells that you’re running below EV.
This is a well-known gambler fallacy. And this is why « EV by street » is completely bogus and should not be implemented.
Note: Tristanblue writes « it’s precisely because EV by street does nothing to your adjusted-graph on these cases where the opponent folded that it is completely bogus. »
But what if your opponent never folds? Suppose there are two players A and B.
Player A has AA, B has KK. (both have $100 stacks). They commit half their stack preflop and the flop comes AK6. Player B (KK has 1 « out ») to win the hand.
If I would play this hand I would always make sure I’m allin on the turn.
However Player X always commits the rest of his stack on the flop and turn except for one dollar. And he commits on the river.
Of course, 4% of the time, the rivercard is the case King. Player X’s EV Diff is always 0.
My EV Diff is -$4 (96 out of 100 times) and +$96 (4 out of 100 times)
So our EV graph actually looks the same after 100 of these hands.
TOURNEY EV
*Single Table Tournaments only (includes: Double or Nothings, Headsup, etc… excludes: single table satellites!)
*cEV Diff (chip EV difference)…: this works exactly the same as the $EV Won for cashgames.
*$EV Diff (dollar EV difference)
*$Won + SUM $EV Diff = $EV Won
*The same « why EV per street is bad » applies for tourneys too.
–>Confusion: $EV Won vs $USD EV vs EV $ Diff vs $EV Diff vs cEV Diff vs $Won vs Luck Adjusted Winnings vs All-in EV (do we need eight different terms for three different things?)
*In addition: the $EV Won can be confusing when it’s negative and a larger number than the actual buyin, or positive and a larger number than the actual first price money.
You have some extreme situations (often in Double or Nothing and in SUPER TURBO SNGs)
Extreme examples:
$169 buyin SUPER TURBO, $Won = $720 (1th place)—> $EV Won = -$196 (a negative value, that is higher than the actual buyin)
$5.20 buyin DoN, $Won = $10—> $EV Won = $11.35 (more than you can actually win)
So EV becomes quite a meaningless number if you focus on one game (or in the « case King hits the river » AA vs KK example on that one hand)
The more you play, the more accurate it gives a representation of your overall « luck ».
And it doesn’t take into account coolers. There was a program called set-o-meter (worked with PT2) where you could see how often you’d hit a set.
EV doesn’t take into account how often (and how much) you win/lose with an overpair against a set (and vice versa).
